Cashmere is prized, coveted, and subject to a form of counterfeiting. Between synthetic blends sold as "soft touch" and the belief that all cashmere is created equal, it's easy to get fooled. Yet there are a few truths worth knowing about real cashmere to identify it and invest in lasting pieces that stand the test of time.
The truth about cashmere, quick answers
- Real cashmere is an exceptional fibre distinguished by its lightness, softness and thermoregulating properties.
- It comes from the down of certain breeds of goats raised in the mountainous regions of Asia.
- To be harvested, this down must be combed rather than shorn, in order to respect animal welfare and preserve the quality of the cashmere material.
- On average, around a hundred grams of down can be harvested per goat. It therefore sometimes takes combing up to six goats to produce a single real cashmere sweater, which explains the high cost of a piece.
- To avoid scams, get into the habit of checking the garment's label, which must state its composition (aim for 70% or even 100% cashmere!) and its origin ("designed in Paris" does not mean "made in Paris", far from it).
- A very low price on a cashmere piece often hides a synthetic blend (and a scam).
Real cashmere, almost a protected designation of origin
Cashmere comes from various mountainous regions of Asia, notably Mongolia, home to a breed of nomadic goat, the Capra Hircus, highly sought after for its down.
What makes this breed of goat special? It has very little body fat. So to survive the harsh winters, it developed an extremely soft undercoat with powerful insulating properties. A precious and rare material that will become cashmere.
But to preserve all the quality of this exceptional down, it must be harvested in a very particular way: by combing the goats rather than shearing them.
At Linnea Lund, the goats are therefore combed with the utmost respect for the animal, in spring, when they no longer need this layer of warmth.
By hand, the herders we have always worked with run a comb through each animal's coat to collect only the hairs that are shedding or caught in the comb.
The reason for cashmere's high price
As you'll have gathered, real cashmere requires patience and craftsmanship. The way it is harvested fundamentally makes it a luxury product (QED).
So it goes without saying that: no, cashmere production cannot go hand in hand with industrialisation and fast fashion.
To give you a very concrete example, the most exceptional cashmere goat breed can provide up to 250 grams of raw down, which is then spun and woven.
When you know that on average it takes harvesting the hair of six goats to obtain enough material to make a single cashmere sweater, and that it sometimes takes several years of harvesting to produce a mini collection, the price displayed at purchase becomes easier to understand.
Yes, making real cashmere is a long, artisanal process that cannot be ignored when you want to protect animal welfare, honour ancestral know-how and produce quality cashmere with exemplary traceability, as at Linnea Lund.
How to recognise real, quality cashmere and avoid the scam?
To tell real cashmere from the "fake", without being an expert, three senses are enough.
First, touch: real cashmere has a silky softness, without any unpleasant sensation. No, cashmere does not itch — it truly gives the feeling of wearing a "second skin".
Then, weight: once in hand, a real cashmere sweater is incredibly light! It is almost weightless. A sweater with synthetic fibre blends will be heavier and stiffer.
There is a very practical tool for estimating the quality of cashmere based on different criteria : Cashmere grades, with grade A being the highest with an extremely fine fiber.
| Criterion | Grade A | Grade C |
|---|---|---|
| Fibre length | Long (36–40 mm) | Short (under 30 mm) |
| Fineness (diameter) | Fine (14–15.5 microns) | Thick (over 19 microns) |
| Origin | Neck/belly undercoat (Capra hircus) | Coarser hairs, other areas |
| Softness | Very soft, non-irritating | Rougher, may itch |
| Pilling | Low | High |
| Durability | High, lasts over time | Low, quickly loses shape |
| Warmth / insulation | Excellent | Lesser |
| Appearance | Uniform, smooth, matte | Irregular, dull |
| Typical use | Luxury, slow fashion | Fast fashion, blends |
| Price | High | Low |
👌 Charlotte's tip, founder of Linnea Lund, for recognising real cashmere:
"You can rub the fibre: if it quickly forms pills naturally, it's often a sign of a fine, quality fibre, whereas synthetic tends not to form fluff, or forms harder little beads."
⭐ Wondering how to remove the pills? We have the answer here!
And finally, the label: it must state the country of manufacture and the composition. What we want is "made in Italy" and "100% Cashmere"! Avoid vague terms like "cashmere touch" or "cashmere-like", or "imagined in Paris", which does not mean "made in Paris", far from it.
Does ethical cashmere really exist?
At Linnea Lund, it's one of our battles: to defend cashmere produced in an ethical, sustainable and responsible way.
The transparency of our manufacturing system is at the heart of our approach and our values. It's one of our strengths and one of the things that sets us apart.
From spinning to making-up, every Linnea Lund cashmere garment is crafted with the utmost respect for the animals and for all the Italian artisans who take part in its creation.
Nothing is left to chance, and everything is designed to produce only what is ordered in order to avoid any overproduction.
In fact, buying real cashmere is a "slow fashion" investment that lasts a lifetime, unlike low-priced garments that wear out within a few months.
Real cashmere, the most frequently asked questions
-
Is all cashmere the same?
No, and that's why it's essential to check the country of manufacture. Cashmere made in Italy from a pure cashmere yarn, as our Linnea Lund pieces are, guarantees you a garment of great quality.
-
Does quality depend on the number of plies?
No, the number of plies (2-ply or 4-ply) instead determines the density of the knit, hence its thickness. The more plies twisted together to make up the knitting cashmere yarn, the warmer the garment. A 2-ply cashmere will simply be lighter than a 4-ply cashmere, which is thicker.
⭐ Discover our different Linnea Lund cashmere qualities.
-
Is real cashmere fragile?
No, cashmere is very hard-wearing, easy to care for and, contrary to what you might think, it's a material that loves water, so don't hesitate to wash it!
⭐ Our secrets for washing your cashmere sweaters properly.